Heaven in a banana leaf cup

Yes, the pursuit for delicious and different food continues...just ask my butt! 

Mouse took me to the market yesterday, where I bought Hor Mok Bplaa. The thing about going to the market, with a local, is that they know who sells the best, freshest, whatever and at the best price. Oh, and they can explain to you exactly what it is you’ll be eating later.

Hor Mok Bplaa is a Steamed Curry and Fish Custard (hòr mòk bplaa /ห่อหมกปลา)

Angel's Juice

Angel, along with her sister, runs a modest eatery not far from our apartment. We sometimes drop in for a stir fry or Stray’s omelet. When she’s not cooking, Angel can often be seen sitting behind large plastic tubs, big enough to bath a small child in, and pots.



You would be forgiven for thinking this was something one might find on a forest floor, or possibly stuck to the bottom of a shoe, because sometimes, it would be.

'E' is for Oology

Granted, oology is the study and or collection of eggs, but nowhere does it state that you can't eat them.

Recently one of our neighbours (who is one of the most generous, loveliest ladies I've met) started introducing us to a few Thai delicacies. This one reminds me of the first bottle of shampoo I purchased here, both in colour and in pleasant surprise.

This is khai yiao maa – (ไข่เยี่ยวม้า) literally ‘egg urine horse’ or commonly known as Century Egg. Usually duck eggs are chosen and undergo a lengthy preservation process borrowed from the Chinese, which doesn't involve any equine pee. However you do get a definite (short lived) whiff of ammonia when peeling them, so I imagine the intensity of their odour during the fermentation process would be enough to knock you off your feet. Quite pretty really!

What's lurking beneath the banana leaves?

While we were in Chiang Rai we indulged in a few new Thai foods. When we're at the markets we tend to shy away from little banana leaf parcels and unrecognisable food, because they're a mystery to us. So, we were happy to tag along with Nong Mum who chose a few local treats for us to try. (Nong Mum is so cute and a few years my junior. She holds my hand as we cross the NOT busy streets of Chiang Rai...and I think of the traffic from hell in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, each time she did so).

Rice porridge triangles (Khaao Dtom Saam Liiam - ข้าวต้มสามเหลี่ยม) Green (coloured with pandan I guess) rice porridge triangles, served with red beans, a little sugar and shredded coconut. This would be incredibly fiddly to make, the rice mixture is wrapped in teeny banana leaf triangles and steamed. A little rubbery, but nice and not too sweet.

Apologies for the mobile phone camera quality photos.

Retreat to Chiang Rai - Mae Sai

After last night's belly full of good tucker and an excellent sleep we headed off to Mae Sai, on the Thai Burmese border. 'S' borrowed his Mum's pick up truck which seats five. There were seven of us. We were invited to ride in the back with our young Rastafarian friends but decided we're getting a bit long in the tooth for that sort of thing.

We've been before, and over the bridge to Tachileik, but this time we were visiting the markets...markets I didn't know existed. To the south and left of the bridge, behind the main street buildings, lies a labyrinth of stalls, hundreds of them.

Retreat to Chiang Rai

One of Stray's TEFL class mates, 'S', has returned home to a quite village just outside of Chiang Rai, now that the course is over. We were lucky enough to pay him and his friends a visit over the weekend. At the Chiang Mai bus station Stray goes off to find out at which platform our bus will be arriving, because this time he bought second class return tickets and tells me he doesn't think its the usual VIP Green Bus. Instead he points to this...which looks much nicer in the photo, than in real life.

..."and we only have second class" he says, "we'll be up the back with the chickens." I know the bus is going to Chiang Rai, because I can actually read the writing now.

Whatever!

I know him well and wasn't surprised when our real chariot arrived. Even in second class, the Green Buses are cheap, comfortable and air conditioned, you just don't get the first class snack and bottle of water...whoop dee doo.

Thailand's Got Talent - Takoyaki

Near where we eat most nights, a van parks close by selling freshly made squid balls, aka Takoyaki. Not the processed meat kind, these have squid in the centre of a dough/batter, which is flavoured with grated carrot and shallots etc.

This guy has definitely cooked a few in his day and uses only a couple of skewers to get the job done.

The balls are moved along the row of griddles, depending on their cooking stage, the final one being set to 'keep warm'.

Op là! They're delicious and at five for 20 Baht, he has plenty of customers.

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Palm Heart Puffs

Saturday night walking market on Wua Lai road provides an opportunity to sample even more food, with a helpful English sign here and there.

These caught my eye, looking like a pile of something between fairy floss and scoops of ice cream, before I spotted their explanation. "It looks, feels, and tastes like a bready flour cake, but it's not. It's made from steamed palm hearts.....

SiamSato, Ceylon Flowers and Abaranth

At the 7-11 I noticed this in the refrigerator.

It was in the beer section...so I grabbed a bottle, because it was so cheap. Only 25 Baht. I opened it when I returned home and poured some in a glass. No bubbles, barely any colour...what’s going on?

Chiang Mai's 23rd Food Festival

Lately our blog seems to be revolving around food...so why break the theme now? Last night we walked over to the 23rd Chiang Mai Food Festival. Not huge, but big enough to pass away two or three hours. About a hundred or so food stalls surrounding a large eating area, where you can enjoy a meal, beer and live entertainment.

Grilling whole fish over coals.

Umong Wine House Warming

Back home I really enjoy a glass of red wine (probably a little too much at times ;). In Asia, imported wine is obviously on the expensive side when compared to local products, particularly if you're on a local budget. Mike's review on Mao Berry Wine gave me hope, so I thought I'd do a bit of sampling myself. Why not!  A a house warming celebratory drink. We moved from a hotel room into an apartment today.

While wandering around Central Airport Plaza, I purchased a small bottle (70 Baht) of Umong Wine, rather than blow 250 Baht on what might be an inferior product.

Why So Blue?

I came across this today. I didn't taste it, because, well...it just looked unnatural to me. After Googling 'blue rice' I discovered that apparently it's coloured with the flower Morning Glory. Even if I knew that it wasn't riddled with blue dye, I still wasn't sure what to do with it next. The rice platter was surrounded by bowls of toppings/condiments...so I guess you just flavour it to your own liking?

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

The Garden

The Garden was one of our favourite places to eat, drink and duck out of the hustle and bustle of central Chiang Mai last year, so we went back for a visit. Unfortunately for us, good for them, it's situated smack bang near the intersection of the Sunday night Walking Street Markets.

I don't remember the walking being as slow or as crowded as it was yesterday evening. We stopped for a juice and sat out of the way for about 20 minutes and to escape the stifling heat generated by  bodies and hundreds of stall lights.

Anyway, we got there in the end and were lucky there were still a few vacant seats.

Stray's meal: pad see ew, excellent! My meal: Squid with basil and  of course steamed rice. Also excellent, however, I forgot to say 'nit naawy phrik kha!'. HOLD THE BLOODY CHILLI. Even after plucking the little blighters out, it was incredibly hot. My eyes started watering and the fire in my mouth intensified. I do alright on the chillidometer, but will never reach Thai standards.

I finish my meal. I ask the waiter for a little bit of milk.  He looks at me strangely and questions my request. I guess he couldn't figure out how the milk worked in with the squid dish and Chang beer. 'Yes please', I say. By the time he returned with my milk, delivered in a small jug :) the inferno was dying down...but I drank it anyway for good measure.

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Yesterday - Half of today was spent getting some much needed supplies: phone charger, universal power board, locks etc. But on the top of our list were pillows. Because ours.... well, I reckon somewhere around town two foundation stones are missing.

The mattress isn’t far behind in the comfort department, but we’ll deal with that another day.

Robinsons at Airport Central Plaza, which is on par with Myer or David Jones, was a little over our price range. In fact the prices were similar to those back in Australia. We walked about a kilometre or so down to Tesco Lotus and bought our 199 Baht pillows, including covers.

I’m looking forward to tonight’s sleep, but I’m sure our new purchases will only highlight just how bad the mattress is.

First post from CM

If I was a superstitious person I may have cancelled my trip to Chiang Mai. The omens or warning signs leading up to our departure may have been enough to deter some: increased Red Shirt activity, explosive devices going off willy nilly, the cancellation of my course = loss of Ed visa = possible/probable loss of my deposit, headlines of  'Thailand - expecting worst floods in 50 years', an Aussie bank losing all of my certified documentation to sell my shares just prior to leaving, waking up to find a dead rat size mouse at the foot of the mattress on our last morning at home (a farewell gift from our cat) ...but, no, not me...I'm here!

We arrived late last night, extremely tired, but happy we got it all over and done with in one day. On exiting the airport Stray saw his old taxi driver mate, Mr A, so it was nice to see a familiar face straight away.

The hotel is pleasant, quiet, clean and quite large, situated in the outskirts of Chiang Mai and shadowed by Doi Suthep. Theoretically I'll be able to find my way back, should I get lost, using the mountain as a landmark.

The recorded female elevator attendant in hotel is a bit of a worry. She had a slight spac attack this morning and advised that we were shooting up past the mezzanine floor and penthouses (like there are any) at great knots, and that there was an earthquake and we should get out.

Cheap Eats Chiang Mai - East of the Moat

{The information below was gathered from October 2010 onward and is being gathered on the 'Chiang Mai Cheap Eats' Page. I'll be updating the posts regularly, but am keeping them predated (4 Feb 2010) so I don't clutter up the home page and bore everyone to tears. My apologies to those who are subscribed to new posts.}

Cheat eats east of the moat. See the map for numbered locations.

1. Hinlay Curry House See the map for numbered locations.
Not an easy place to find if you don't know the area. Hinlay Curry House sits in a garden setting, with both open and sheltered areas. The curry was great, I had Hinlay beef, rice, water and half a rotti bread for around 110 Baht. Smallish portions, but ample for lunch or a light meal.

2. Mayflower Restaurant See the map for numbered locations.
Italian fare and Thai dishes. A large crispy base pizza, which feeds two, 200 Baht. Our table ordered five, all could have done with a minute longer in the oven, but were tasty. The amount of topping didn't match the photos, but considering the cost of cheese in Thailand and prices in surrounding restaurants, it wasn't too bad. Large Leo 95 Baht, a little on the expensive side.

Sorry...we were really hungry.

3. Ratana's Kitchen See the map for numbered locations.
At 320 Tha Pae Rd, Ratana's Kitchen faces the beautiful white statue encrusted walls of Wat Bupparam.

It is mentioned on Fodders, Lonely Planet and various other travel websites, as being one of 'the' places to eat. So, I am always surprised to find seats available. We've eaten there three times already and find the meals delicious and well priced, perhaps a little on the small side. Choose to eat inside in air conditioning or at one of the few large wooden tables outside on the pavement.

Pumpkin, egg and mixed seafood

Sweet and sour pork

Soups and meals start at around 30 Baht, those above, about 50 Baht. I haven't tried any Western food on their menu...why would I!

4. Ruen Pae I Restaurant is situated lakeside. A lovely, quite spot to stop for lunch if your doing the arts and craft circuit out in the Bo Sang area. The dishes start at 50 Baht and just about anything is available on the menu, from frog, pig belly or tongue to spring rolls and the usual Thai fare.

The frog was understandably a bit bony, but tasty!

The restaurant entrance.

Heading eastish, away from Chiang Mai on highway 1006, turn left at Baan Celadon Pottery. See the map for numbered locations.

5. Gekko Garden Restaurant. D I'm not sure why everyone raves about this place. Sure the atmosphere is nice and retreat like, but on my first and only visit here, it left me quite disappointed. I would give it another chance though. The Gekko has daily farang specials, today's was fish and chips for 95 Baht. OK, according to Stray and the price is quite reasonable.

I, however, chose a shrimp salad and expected something a little more 'special' for 115 Baht. Don't let the size fool you. Underneath the generous serve of watery, tasteless shrimp lies a mountain of lettuce. Perhaps if I'd drowned in one of the 12 condiments presented on the table, it may have been a bit more palatable.

I should have stuck to Thai food, which is probably more appetising and half the price.See the map for numbered locations. ...*post edit. A few months later... OK, so I thought I'd give this place one more try. We ordered the special of the day, steak, chips and salad. To help customers choose the way they like their steak cooked, there are photos in the menu. We chose Medium Well Done...still pink in the middle. The waitress starts pointing to the Well Done photo and asks me if I speak Thai? 'A little' I say. With that commences a barrage of Thai and hand motions. If I'm any good at charades, I'm sure she was saying that the Well Done steak is hard to cut....no problem that's why we're not ordering it.

Several minutes later she and another staff member appear, presenting two raw steaks on a plate. Unlike a bottle of wine, we could hardly taste test it. We both agree that they look OK, nice and thick, round and not too much fat...but a little.

Quite some time goes by and out come our meals. Somehow those nice round steaks had unravelled? Between the ultra well done meat were huge amounts of gristle, which I left in a pile, as a 'statement' on my plate. The salad: A few pieces of lettuce, slices of onion and tomato. The chips...well, to their credit, they weren't out of the freezer.

6. Nam Mae Ping.See the map for numbered locations. ....loved it!

Very reasonable prices, tasty Lanaa style food served in a pleasant garden setting. Forgot the camera, but their website explains it all. By the way, my link has been run through Google translator, so it's in Thainglish! Here's the original Thai version. I tried a simple pork and vegetable platter, and selected the minced pork and tomato dipping sauce (80 Baht). If you visit the website, you'll see that there are more traditional Lanna dishes to choose from. I've been several times and enjoy a change from the over flogged Thai style dishes on menus around town.

Also, I'm not sure if I've located it correctly on the map, but you can see the Pornping Tower, across the river, from the restaurant.

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Cheap Eats Chiang Mai - South of the Moat

{The information below was gathered from October 2010 onward. I'll be updating the posts regularly, but am keeping them predated (4 Feb 2010) so I don't clutter up the home page and bore everyone to tears. My apologies to those who are subscribed to new posts.}

Eating south of the moat. Click on the link for numbered locations

1. P'Lek - Central Airport Plaza Click on the link for numbered locations
The plaza is jam packed with eateries, but try the one just inside the downstairs entrance of the North Village. It's quite a large stall and can be recognised by its big clay pots filled with various soups, which are poured over your choice of noodles. Take a seat and add your own fresh vegetables, herbs and condiments. Be careful choosing your soup if your not into chilli. A tasty, healthy meal and a bargain at 15 ฿. Freshly blended fruit juices (at different stalls) from 20 ฿.

2. South Thipanet Road Click on the link for numbered locations
There are quite a few stalls just outside of the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre, which by the way is a Khantoke Dinner restaurant and show complex 420 ฿ per head. Nearly all have seating areas and are distinguished by their different coloured table cloths and seats....they no doubt will change from time to time. All provide water and ice, but you can BYO beverages.

3. Steak, Chicken and Salad stall Click on the link for numbered locations
We had a thin, but nice peppered steak and shredded salad for 69 ฿ each. Tomato sauce and mayo optional. A nice change if you're wanting a break from Thai flavours. This stall is run by a lovely Muslim lady and is located at the north end of the row. (the table cloths have already changed to a coffee/café theme, with yellow seats).

Tasted better than my photo looks.

4. Rice and Noodle dishes Click on the link for numbered locations

Right next door and south of number 2 above, is a husband and wife team who are a pleasure to watch in action! Two rice/veggie and meat dishes, one Pad Thai - total 80 ฿. Look for the yellow table cloths and red seats.

*5. Harrad's Café Click on the link for numbered locations We've been to Harrad's Café (9 Nantaram Rd) a few times (we actually frequent it a few times a week since I originally posted this), but until last night, only for a coffee, beer, or a serve of chunky, home made hot potato chips for Stray ;)...excellent by the way (40 ฿).

Western breakfasts and meals are usually not my 'thing', but they are on the menu for considerably more than the above. Understandably, due to the extra cost of western ingredients...like cheese! I do like their huge baked potatoes topped with baked beans or chile con carne though :) from only 90 ฿. Stray had a squid in yellow curry, which wasn't on the menu, but happily cooked for him, and I had prawns with cashews and vegetables. The servings were generous and delicious. Thai dishes range from around 55 - 70 ฿ plus rice, for 10 ฿.

We've never had a bad meal there and believe me, we've had quite a few. The latest addition, which isn't on the menu, is Laab Sukhathai. A tangy mince dish served with salad veggies and rice if you want it.

6. Wrap and Roll Click on the link for numbered locations is a small cafe tucked back, but very visible, off Wualai Rd. I was nearly, literally bowled over by the hospitality I received from the moment I walked in, to when I finally decided to leave. Vietnamese dishes such as Pho Bo or Ga (69 ฿ - only available week days) and Baguette sandwiches (59 ฿) are on the menu, and I'll be back to give them a try. On my one and only visit I had a Vietnamese iced coffee (59 ฿) and a (Thai) Pad Ga Praw Moo (stir fried pork with chilli and holy basil 59 ฿), which was made from strips and not minced pork...very nice. The owner lived in Vietnamese, running restaurants for six years, hence the mixture of cuisines.

I was assured that I could sit for as long as I liked, after my meal, which I did.

A nice distance away from busy Wualai Rd.

I look forward to returning to sample more dishes and enjoy the outstanding customer service.

7. Ciccia's House Click on the link for numbered locations This probably the best pizza I've had in Chiang Mai to date...I didn't mind the overdone crust one bit, because that meant that it was cooked! Sadly, under baked pizza seems to be popular here.

Sorry, I can't remember the cost, but it was no more expensive that anywhere else and was an ample lunch for two people. I didn't mind the fresh fruit salad, muslei with yoghurt and a coffee, I had there the other day, either. Generous serving and very tasty. Just a few doors south of Harrads, but before you reach the hospital.

The place with the round orange sign

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Cheap Eats Chiang Mai - West of the Moat

{The information below was gathered from October 2010 onwards. I'll be updating the posts regularly, but am keeping them predated (4 Feb 2010) so I don't clutter up the home page and bore everyone to tears. My apologies to those who are subscribed to new posts.}

Eating west of the moat - see map and numbered legend for locations Note, not all of the Soi Sutheps are numbered on Google maps. Count west from highway 121, along Suthep, to ascertain their numbers.

1. Mr Churro Donut see map and numbered legend for locations
Cheap, good coffee in a large mug with fresh milk 15 ฿. Nice donuts from 15 ฿. Western food: OK 6 slice Pizza from 170 ฿ and (didn't try them) french fries 49 ฿. Open 7.30 am - 10.30 pm.

2. Cafe?

Small clean cafe, 6th shop from the (south west, heading away from Mr Churro Donut) corner, blue table cloths. There's a white and orange lightbox sign just outside, but I think it must belong to the closed store next door. It Google translated to 'Dr than beautiful'? Curry, vegies and rice from 20 ฿

3. Large local style restaurant? see map and numbered legend for locations

Excellent, but not sure of the name. Large cafe with timber furniture. 2 Indian style curries, one pork and egg, one squid, both with rice 65 ฿. On the corner (not visible on map) of Moo 8 and Soi Suthep 7.

4. Derm Derm Bar and Restaurant see map and numbered legend for locations

Nice atmosphere, large out door candle lit eating areas. Stray enjoyed his deep fried catfish in red curry 68 ฿. My soup of tofu, minced pork and cabbage was light on the solid ingredients, but nice 68 ฿, stir fried brocolli with crispy pork 68 ฿ plus 2 serves rice 30 ฿. Large Chang Beers 50 ฿. The location on the map is not exact, but you can't miss the signs and lanterns in the trees. Open only in the evenings when we were there.

5. Food stalls see map and numbered legend for locations

Most evenings you can find just about anything along this stretch, including clothes. Chicken skewers topped with mayo and eshallots 10 ฿. Curries, rice or noodles and a plate of salad vegies to choose from, for around 25 ฿. Langsat 30 ฿ kilo and apples 10 ฿ each. The stall with yellow signs, red table cloths and chairs, opposite Soi Suthep 3 and 4 is good value.

6. Woraran Music School Cafe* see map and numbered legend for locations

You'll see a sign for the school but not the cafe on the corner of Soi Suthep 5 and Suthep Rd. Lovely setting in amongst trees, timber building, table and chairs . Good quality salads with meat. Also, Thai rice and meat dishes. One (really fresh) salad with ham, sausage and boiled egg. Accompanied by a toasty hot bread bun and butter 40 ฿ Cup of coffee with fresh milk 25 ฿. I'll be going back.

7. Kasem Store - see map and numbered legend for locations
Situated at the north end of Nimmanhemin Rd (Nimmaahaeminda Rd), opposite Soi 3. Kasem Store - left side is a grocery store with a wide range of fresh bakery goods at the front. The right hand side is a coffee shop. The store is charming and has timber doors and facure. Grab a cake from the store and order a coffee from the cafe. Cappuccino, lovely! and complimentary cold water 35 ฿, pastries/buns start at around 18 ฿.

8. The Cat House C see map and numbered legend for locations or their website.
This place is quaint, quirky and dishes up great food. The location on my map is not exact, but the street is. You can't miss the multicoloured assortment of out and indoor timber dining settings. It's on the right hand side, heading away from Nimmanhaemin Rd. Special of the Day - Tofu, chicken or pork curry in Indain style bread with salad 60 Baht. They also have a good range of drinks from 30 Baht.

9. Love More (ex - Out Doors) C Renamed, now with bright pink and blue neon signs see map and numbered legend for locations 16/1 Soi 5 off Nimmana Haeminda Road (Nimmenhemin).

Out Doors is reasonly priced with meals ranging from around 80 Baht. The four of us ate (stuffed ourselves) 9 or 10 dishes, got  two takeway meals and a couple of drinks each, for under 1000 Baht.

Like the name suggests, this restaurant is out doors, but most table settings are under cover. Good value and delicious food, from Thai cuisine to crumbed chicken breast stuffed with ham and cheese.

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai