Road Trip – Pak Chong to Khon Kaen

8 - 9 th Feb, 2013

With Pak Chong literally behind us, we had roughly 230 km in front of us before we’d reach Khon Kaen. The roads themselves in Thailand are good, however, as we all know the traffic rules and load limits can be another story.

Being sugar cane harvest time many of the trucks are filled higher than high. On two occasions during our trip, we witnessed trucks that had come to grief, no bends in the road!...maybe a gust of wind?

Not a sugar cane truck

Lunch stop

Khon Kaen

As we entered Khon Kaen we retrieved Ning Nong from the console to locate our lodgings for the night. And, as she guided us around town, Stray spotted a nice looking yellow building down a lane, not from from Fairy Plaza Shopping Mall.

The Money Place Hotel - Khon Kaen

With the name like ‘The Money Place’, which is opposite the still under construction, orange, ‘The Rich Home’, we couldn’t go wrong ;) A very newish and acceptable hotel indeed. Decorated simplistically and containing a fridge, large soft bed, small dining area, ample bench and storage, sat TV and air con the rooms were more than adequate, spacious and clean. You can find them on Facebook here.

All the rooms opened out onto external walkways/verandas

We happened to be visiting on a Friday when the walking street night markets are held, only a short walk north from Fairy Plaza on Na Muang Road. I forget exactly which street on the right it is, but you can’t miss the stalls and people and naturally, there’s 7 Eleven on the corner. Not the biggest night market I’ve been to, but plenty of trinkets and reasonably priced (tagged) clothes. Stray had bargained and bought shorts for 350 baht in Pattaya, here they were on the rack for 200 baht.

And food, lots of food, so that’s where we stopped for dinner. Sorry, no photos. 

With not much time allocated to our morning activities (I’m already starting to wish we had more time up our sleeves) we asked the girls at reception where we could find breakfast = boiled eggs and if at all possible, toast. They gave us directions, in Thai, back to the same street that hosted the markets the night before with the land mark of ‘???? red’. *Umbrellas, I see red umbrellas, that must be it! We ordered and ate our boiled eggs accompanied with those little donut pastries (which double as soldiers/toast fingers) and coffee strong enough to fuel a small jet plane.

Tummies full, we packed up the car and took a short drive to see the Nine Storey Stupa (or Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon) located in Wat Nong Waeng, near Kaen Nakhon Lake.

50 metres square, 80 metres high and adorned with temple bells, it makes a pretty sight and sound. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to go inside, which is a shame after reading Wiki’s description of its contents.

Across the lake

Pedal paddle boats

We wandered down to the lake and around the park, which was fairly deserted apart from many trees and quite a few sculptures. I’m sure there was much more to see and places to visit, but alas, Nong Khai was awaiting our arrival.

*LIGHT, it was 'red light' as in traffic light -  fai daeng! As luck would have it the red umbrellas belonged to the street cafe next to the traffic lights.

Places mentioned in this post on Google Maps.

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

When Tripadvisor won't advise - Happiness Guesthouse

For quite a few years I've gathered valuable information from tripadvisor.com and contributed what I could, myself. Even adding unlisted hotels and guesthouses to their list. To do that, you must provide as much detail about said establishment, as possible. 

However, after sending specifics about the Happiness Guesthouse and a great hotel in Khon Kaen, I was politely rejected and given this link.

I didn't really want to sift though Tripadvisor's requirements, so decided to do my own review here for the Happiness Guesthouse. Here goes...

Refer to previous post to how we arrived at our lodgings. Now I'll just show you some photos of where we stayed with a few relevant and not so relevant comments :)

Massive (wet) bathroom with danky corners

The 300 Baht room...hardish mattress

Large 400 Baht room with private balcony

Private balcony over looking the street

View way off in the distance on a hill top, taken from the roof top of the guesthouse

Another view of the bathroom in need of a good scrub

From the roof top (not meant to be up there) looking down on the car park

The communal balcony on the upper floor.

Comments: Beware the red chairs, they've been sitting there for years and tend to collapse under farang (non Thai sized foreigners). Internet is available at an hourly rate, I didn't bother using it, I was kapooped. The staff that greeted us, the old guy who owns the place, didn't speak English and wasn't very customer savvy. Later that afternoon a couple of younger people appeared in reception and were helpful the one time I asked for information. No breakfast or toiletries, and no luxuries such as an in room safe...it's a guesthouse. 

Finding breakfast was a bit of a challenge, encountering no boiled eggs (ไข่ลวก kài-​lûak...frustrating, because we pronounced it kai luuang for most of our trip and were understood!) and toast (not for me) on the service road we did a U turn on the suggestion of a local and started to head back out of town. It wasn't long before we spotted a western style coffee shop/cafe. 

The location. Right next to a train track, not visible and rarely heard from the guesthouse.


View Happiness Inn Pak Chong Thailand in a larger map

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Road trip - Pattaya to not quite Nakhon Ratchasima

Initially this was going to be a motorcycle ride, with five of us on four largish bikes...I don't ride. However, circumstances dwindled us down to three and the fact that Australian travel insurance companies are unwilling to cover motorcyclists in Thailand, left us hiring a car.

Personally I was OK with this, I don't mind a comfortable seat, aircon and shelter from the elements. And, besides, I've done my time on the back of a scooter for a year in Chiang Mai and even more painful memorable, to Laos and back.

We asked around and researched on the internet about hiring a car and decided on Hertz. The prices were reasonable and I couldn't find any negative reviews about the company, and collecting it (Honda Civic) in Pattaya meant we wouldn't have to drive in Bangkok traffic.

We also rented a Sat Nav which we dubbed 'Ning Nong'. No it's not a Thai name, it's because most of the time she wanted us to drive on the service roads, even though we nominated NOT to avoid highways. My android tablet and phone were armed with three Thailand Map apps, as back up. More about them another day.

So, about midday we load our destination 'Nakhon Ratchasima something or other' into Ning Nong and off we go. Me, the self nominated back seat driver, Stray in the driver's seat and his nong sao, younger sister, as copilot.

As time passes we get the feeling that we're not heading in quite the right direction...we're getting way too close to the big mango for comfort. My Thailand GPS Map by Kaart Data  concurs and we reset our destination, ensuring that it is in fact in Muang (city) Nakhon Ratchasima, like the airport, not a government building in Bangkok.

Success, we're on the right track, driving along highway 9 waiting to meet up with highway 1, when Ning Nong decides to take us on a scenic detour. It was nice to get off the highway and we did make a comfort stop and enjoyed a bite to eat at a market full of recently released inquisitive school children, but yet another delay in our plan to reach Nakhon Ratchasima.

As we drove into Pak Chong we voted unanimously that that was enough adventuring for one day and asked Ning Nong to find us a hotel.

"You've reached your destination" she says, as we pull up outside of what looks like could have been a small hotel once upon a time. Stray gets out and talks to a man sitting out the front and a passer by who is more than willing to give him some friendly directions to what turned out to be a 5 star hotel not far on the same road.

A bit out of our price range, reception gives us the name of an establishment more within our means. However, before we find it we see a sign saying 'Happiness Guesthouse'.

Sounds ideal!

Larger 400 Baht room with private balcony.

The guesthouse is nearly at the end of a quiet, except for an occasional train hurtling by, suburban no through road. The building itself is lovely, a tiny touch of possibly French architecture. The rooms are tired and basic, although clean and substantial, ranging from 300 - 400 baht. All of the rooms have a communal balcony with tables and chairs overlooking the car park.

Famished after a long afternoon of getting to know Ning Nong and becoming reacquainted with Thai road rules, we moseyed along down to the 'Texas Saloon'. We'd noticed this nice establishment during our hunt for a hotel.

We didn't opt for a steak, but can certainly vouch for their Thai food. My fried noodle dish with chicken, vegies and green pepper corns was delish!

Next stop Khon Kaen.

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Airport hotels, Kuala Lumpur

Way back in March...

By airport hotel, I mean one physically in the airport or one close enough to take a shower, grab a bite to eat and have a short sleep before your next flight...when it's just way to long to window shop the duty free stores and drink expensive or bad coffee.

I remember our first experience in an 'airport' hotel at Kuala Lumpur's luxurious International Airport Pan Pacific back in 2007, pre-blogging/reviewing days.Transported to reception in a golf buggy (if we'd known about it) and greeted by lovely staff, a cold refreshing drink and hot towels. Stray enjoyed one of the best Aussie steaks he'd ever had for around AU$13, paid for in 3 different currencies! The gargantuan buffet breakfast was well executed and to die for.

These days we land at KL's budget airline terminals (LCCT) and after lugging our bags from the plane, across the tarmac, through immigration, we continue on to the far side of the large car park to the Tune Hotel. A complex of small air conditioned boxes containing a bed with just enough space to walk around it, and a bathroom. Convenient and satisfactory...unless of course they're booked out.

This time we bussed it from Melaka to LCCT and caught a cab out to the Empress Hotel in Sepang, for 42 ringgit. A bit of a drive, a ways out of the airport area, but much closer than the city. A 12 storey hotel, described in its brochure as 'unfolding true Malaysian hospitality in an innovative setting surrounding by interesting local activities' - verbatim.

Translated that roughly means this is a big, old building, yet clean and comfortable. The rooms are generous and well equipped, however, the hotel looks like it was plonked smack in the centre of a sleepy, well worn suburb in the middle of whoop whoop. And, whose inhabitants seem to be doing their utmost to ignore its existence. As one would. Most of the surrounding shops were closed the afternoon we arrived, which made it, more than likely, quieter than usual.

View from the window

Another view from the window

The window

If you're fed up with watching bad quality Sat TV, hungry and or after a beer, step out the front doors, cross the road and turn left. On the corner is a Chinese owned restaurant with plenty of food choices and friendly faces.

Don't think about taking a doggy bag back to your room though, the sign in the hotel foyer clearly states NOT to bring outside food inside... and the fridges have been removed from the rooms. The hotel does have its own cafe, open from 5.00 am until 1.00 pm, and room service if I remember correctly. Brekkie was included and was more than ample.

Handy hint! Book a shuttle for the return journey to the airport when you first arrive, it'll only cost 15 ringgit.

Would I stay again? Yes, if I had to. It's simply an 'over nighter', nothing more and nothing less. No biggy, but don't believe the hotel's blurb and photos. To be honest, the stay was a little surreal, mainly due to the oddish location.

Local houses at the end of the street

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Best Western Wana Riverside Hotel (Melaka) Review

A wonderful place to stay in Melaka. All of the main attractions close by, while enjoying clean, tasteful rooms with excellent staff and pretty views.


Read my full review on Tripadvisor.

 

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Lazy Langkawi - part 1

Way back in March...

From Penang to Langkawi may have been the shortest flight we've ever taken...but I'll have to research that a little further. In stark contrast, the island is quiet and sleepy and HOT!

From the airport we taxied to the AB Hotel, which is divided into two sections by the coastal road in the beach area Pantai Cenang (Cenang Beach), not the township. After checking in with the gals in the under cover, but outdoor reception area (protected by barred windows!) we were pointed across the road to our lodgings, roll of toiler paper in one hand (one per room) and the keys, in the other.

The hotel complex consists of duplex villas and your usual hotel style rooms on different levels. We spent our few days in a villa. Clean, basic, ample room, quiet (but no sat TV) with refurbished bathrooms and cute furry locals that liked to hang out on our balcony.

 

For an island that would seem to rely heavenly on tourists, it was not what we expected, nor what we were accustomed to. There was no usual banter of sales people trying to entice you into a store or restaurant, or stopping you for chit-chat, instead it was quite the opposite.

And, before anyone nay nays me, I was not alone in my conclusion...there were 4 of us and the opinion was unanimous. They just don't like us much! We've travelled to over 12 countries and even more regions and islands, and I'm sad to say I won't return to Langkawi.

I reflect on what it must be like to be a tourist in my own country, and where I don't imagine our guests are greeted with rolling red carpets, I hope they don't leave feeling that we're unfriendly.

Near the township

Only about 1 out of 10 business owners showed any interest in welcoming us or attempting to assist us...usually just pointing us away, down the road, from their shop. Some even lowered their heads, ignoring us, pretending we weren't standing in front of their counters.

I really did break out into laughter when I tried to withdraw funds from one of the few ATM's and the machine spat my card out twice. Looking up I saw the 'Bank of Islam' sign...could have something to do with it!?

It's not all negative though. We enjoyed a great meal at a beachside restaurant (STEAK) owned by a foreigner and lovely breakfasts cooked by a beautiful local lady and her family.

The island was VERY quiet, considering it was school holidays...but that comes back to bite us in the butt, so to speak, in a couple of days.

To be continued...

Snap's other blog Chiang Mai Thai

Where to stay (or not) in Phnom Penh - Modern City Hotel

I'm not sure why this hotel is under the heading of a B & B/Inn on Tripadvisor...it's a hotel!

We had been booked in at Sary's Guesthouse for months prior, having made arrangments directly, with Sary by emails. All was going well until they failed to collect us from the bus station, a trade off in lieu of our free airport pick-up. So in a tuk tuk we jumped and found our own way. On arriving...big apologies for renting out our room!!! for the first of our three night stay. 

Mekong Boutique Hotel, Siem Reap - Review

Whenever we travel, I always submit a review of hotels we stay at on Tripadvisor.com (because I rely on it myself)...that is of course if they can locate the darn hotel. Some remain undiscovered by the website, regardless of providing them with detailed details. Ho hum!

While in Siem Reap we stayed at the Mekong Boutique Hotel, booking directly via their website for US$20 per night, per room, which included breakfast and arrival transfer from the airport, by tuk tuk.

I'm so relieved I left my hand grenades outside!

Here's the review.

The Rim

Right now I'm back looking at my hot pink balcony listening to a symphony of power tools emanating from a nearby constructions site. But, for the last two weeks I had the pleasure playing host to a very special guest...my Mum! Not only was I able to show her some of the sites around Chiang Mai, but I also got to bunk in with her at The Rim Chiang Mai hotel.

I wouldn't be surprised if unsuspecting tourists have mistaken this place for a temple, with its ornate arched entrance which is guarded by fierce mythical creatures.

Too lazy to cross the road, so I lifted this first shot from asiarooms.com

Fire! Fire!

Our good friends 'M' and 'J' arrived from Australia last week and after meeting them at the airport, we went to their hotel...the luxurious Holiday Inn. 'M' and I were standing outside and noticed a large wall of mist emanating from the side of the building, from a few stories high. We figure it's like those similarly used to cool down coffee shops and restaurants.

Shortly after the parking lot attendant starts blowing his whistle, directing cars away from a certain area. Sirens start blaring...from an ambulance, exiting the hospital directly across the road, which hurtles into the hotel car park and from a fire engine, which has over shot the hotel entrance and now needs to reverse in the busy street.

"It's a fire drill!" one of the management staff informs us, saying that all of the guest have been alerted.

Back home I've worked in offices and shops that have legally mandatory, regular fire drills. But ours never involve actual emergency services attending. Pre-nominated fire wardens (employees) have specified tasks...counting heads, ensuring allocated areas have been evacuated etc. Then we all take our merry time, returning to our offices.

So, I was surprised to see the fire truck not only arrive, but to engage the stabilising legs and set the cherry picker (AKA Skylift F32HDT) in motion.

Spray of mist in the background

Visa Run Day 5. Vientiene, Laos (applying for the visa)

At 8.00 am I line up outside the Thai Consulate entrance with fellow visa applicants. The gates rattle open shortly after 8.30 am and we walk quickly to collect our number ticket. I’m 18th. Many of us haven’t completed the actual visa application and sit down to do so. The first 20 or so numbers are called so quickly, we don’t hear them...because we’re all busy, writing and gluing on photos.

No problem, I stand in line and those around me numbered higher happily let me jump ahead. By the time I head over to the payment building, the ticket machine is dispensing number 160. I exit the consulate at 9.35 am. All very straight forward and painless.

Stray meets me outside and takes me to a cafe he discovered a little earlier, just around the corner. Brugel’s Bakery is new, modern and owned/run by a young, half Thai, Laotian man. He has a good head for business, offering free computer use and WiFi, and complementary visa applications that the unscrupulous try to flog for 20 Baht outside of the consulate. In a month or so he’ll have a 400 Baht room to rent and if the standard of the cafe is any indication, I wouldn’t hesitate to stay there. thebrugelbakery@gmail.com



Looking out to the street from the alfresco area

Visa Run Day 4. Vientiane, Laos

Declining Hotel Hell’s offer to mind our bike, for double the price of the lock up facility, we head towards Friendship Bridge. A quick passport check and stamp later, we purchase a 15 Baht bus ticket for the ride across. For some reason we are ushered away from the bus and into a private minivan?

The Laos visa took only 20 minutes: complete the form, attach two photos and pay about 1300 baht. We were approached by a taxi driver who offered us a trip into Vientiane for 150 Baht each, very reasonable for such a long distance, so we take it. The young driver shows us the Thai Consulate and then takes us to a hotel. It’s old, big and comfortable, but could do with a good scrub and renovating in parts. The rooms on the road side share a balcony that runs the whole length of the building, which makes for great people watching over the next few days.

Visa Run Day 3. Loei to Nong Khai

Before leaving Loei we stop to buy a new map, as ours has nearly reached it's limits. The gas station employee suggests we take another path to Nong Khai, up to Chiang Khan and south east, along the Mekong river. (video - Chiang Khan)

Visa Run Day 2. Uttaradit to Loei

It turns out that the route to Loei, plotted out yesterday, is a pleasant change. Quieter (not too quiet) roads, cooler in the shade of the hills and much more scenic. The video isn't very interesting, it's hard to get the camera out at just the right time. 

It’s nice to be off the main highway where the shoulder of the road is officially the motorbike (bicycle, tuk tuk or any other homemade contraption, motorised or not) lane. Overtaking on the inside feels unnatural and dangerous, and it’s illegal in Australia, so often we go around the outside...the normal way.

Visa Run Day 1. Chiang Mai to Uttaradit

When we arrived in Uttaradit this afternoon, Stray said he felt like a Labradoodle, the way everyone would do a double take when they saw us. But first, I’ll go back to this morning, when we left Chiang Mai.

We’d being weighing up our mode of transport for quite some time before going to Laos for my Visa and decided to hire a bike...not a road bike, more like a scooter, a 125 cc Honda Wave.

As we secure our overnight size bag to the front basket, ‘S’, one of the hotel staff (who speaks only Thai) made it quite clear that we are nuts. She alternates between laughing and frowning, and throws in a few ‘mai dee’s’...not good! We assure her we’ll be on the go slow, taking a few days to reach the border. It does occur to us that we may be making a big mistake, but guess that going such distances in Thailand is not the norm, as they are in Australia.

Umong Wine House Warming

Back home I really enjoy a glass of red wine (probably a little too much at times ;). In Asia, imported wine is obviously on the expensive side when compared to local products, particularly if you're on a local budget. Mike's review on Mao Berry Wine gave me hope, so I thought I'd do a bit of sampling myself. Why not!  A a house warming celebratory drink. We moved from a hotel room into an apartment today.

While wandering around Central Airport Plaza, I purchased a small bottle (70 Baht) of Umong Wine, rather than blow 250 Baht on what might be an inferior product.

Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

Yesterday - Half of today was spent getting some much needed supplies: phone charger, universal power board, locks etc. But on the top of our list were pillows. Because ours.... well, I reckon somewhere around town two foundation stones are missing.

The mattress isn’t far behind in the comfort department, but we’ll deal with that another day.

Robinsons at Airport Central Plaza, which is on par with Myer or David Jones, was a little over our price range. In fact the prices were similar to those back in Australia. We walked about a kilometre or so down to Tesco Lotus and bought our 199 Baht pillows, including covers.

I’m looking forward to tonight’s sleep, but I’m sure our new purchases will only highlight just how bad the mattress is.

Day 20 Saigon

Bored with the area our hotel is in (OK if you like Gucci and expensive souvenirs), Stray went looking for another hotel with Hieu, a taxi bike rider. The power went out where our current hotel was, which made packing our bags really uncomfortable and poor Stray had already spent the morning running up and down stairs in about six different hotels.

We decided on Madame Cuc's 3 Hotel which is located in the same district, but in a more interesting area not far from the Ben Thanh Markets...and we saved a massive US$14.00 per night :) The hotel had no elevator, but it did have an electric winch to upload and download luggage.
The staff where wonderful, even sharing their cooked duck embryos with Stray. The room came with a free modest breakfast, dinner, and all day bananas, tea, coffee and juice. It was by no means the Ritz, but a lot more entertaining and personal.

People watching from the hotel entrance was always a good time passer...like why are Vietnamese people walking into the police station next door with pink books in the evening, or why are young men riding around on bicycles at night shaking rattles as they go?

The pink books turned out to be records of foreigners staying at the local hotels, passport details etc. Their way of keeping track of who is where. We probably do the same, but in a computerised version.

We were told that the young boys were offering massages and I think the person who told us this, really believed it. After Googling it, I found that they are actually male prostitutes.

Day 19 Saigon to Vung Tau

Last night we and Audrey dined at Quan An Ngon (Restaurant Delicious) of the same name as the restaurant in Hanoi. A similar set up and atmosphere and really nice food.

The hydrofoil from Saigon to Vung Tau (a beach town and popular with local tourists) only takes about an hour and a half. It's tourist season so tickets were hard to get and we had to settle for an earlier return than we had hoped. Even tomorrow ferries are fully booked.

It was great to see Mr and Mrs Hai, Van, Quang again and to meet Mr Hai's brother, Hoai. The time flew as we chatted and exchanged gifts. We visited the White House of Vung Tau, which was built during the French occupation in the early 1800's and was the last King's summer house.
Shrimp, crabs, fish hot pot, vegies and fried rice, with quite a few Mot, Hai, Ba, Zo's (1 2 3 cheers) for lunch by the sea.

We bid Audrey farewell this afternoon and are just about to head out for dinner.

Snap leaves me nothing to say again except hi to family and friends and hope you all had a happy easter

Later that evening....below is my letter of complaint to the Renaissance Riverside hotel:

Renaissance Riverside Hotel
Ho Chi Minh City

Dear sir or madam

In early April my husband and I treated ourselves to a massage at the Renaissance Riverside Hotel. We had been two years ago and had a good experience.

I chose the foot spa/massage and my husband, a full body massage for VND 190.000. We paid for our massages prior to having them. My massage (which was adequate) was performed by a student under the guidance of two teachers.

When she had finished I emptied my purse to tip her and commented that this is all the money that I had, approximately VN 10.000. I am fairly certain she grunted at me. I waited for my husband in the reception area. A few minutes later I noticed raised voices coming from the changing room. It was that of my husband and his masseuse.

My husband had offered his masseuse a VND 20.000 tip, as 10% is a very acceptable amount to tip, world wide. The masseuse said that this was not enough and called in a co-worker, from the reception area, for reinforcement. Together they argued loudly with him and 'demanded' persistently that he pay VND 100.000, a tip of more than 50%.

He showed them the contents of his wallet which contained a 20.000 and 50.000 dong note and told them we needed money for the taxi fare back to our hotel. The staff's response to this was 'NO...you stay here', meaning at the Renaissance Riverside Hotel and did not need taxi fare. We were not.

After several minutes of their hounding and yelling, they settled for the VND 50.000 tip.

We left upset, shocked and dismayed. The management of the hotel should be greatly concerned that the staff are treating customers and possible guests of the hotel in this manner.

Perhaps the staff need educating in the art of retaining customers, repeat business and gaining new business through recommendations and not just getting the most money out of the situation at hand.

Should you require any further information, please don't hesitate to contact us. For your reference, we will be posting a copy of this letter directly to the hotel.

Day 18 Dalat to Saigon

Saigon (or Ho Chi Ming City) is only a 50 minute flight away. The Dalat Airport looks brand spanking new and our flight was the only flight departing or arriving...just as well, because the control tower is still under construction.

Audrey was on the same flight so when we arrived in Saigon we went is search of a hotel together. Initially we headed for Indochine, which is recommended in Lonley Planet, but took one just a few metres further on, only because that's where the taxi dropped us off.

Nice hotel and of course Stray got the room for less than the going rate. Breakfast and then went down to the Pier to buy our hydrofoil tickets for tomorrow. Just as well, as they were nearly booked out and we will be returning a little earlier in the day than we had hoped.

We treated ourselves to a bit of western food in a cafe on the second floor of a Gourmet food store, for lunch. It stocks goodies from all over the world, including Australia and of course, Vegemite.